Gambia, Senegal, and the roads start to get interesting in Guinea Bissau.
Leaving Tumani Tendra was a bit of a wrench to be honest. The place was so chilled and safe but I had to move on.
After breakfast I got ready and very slowly made my way out of camp on the beautiful sand tracks up to the village. Daily life was well underway and the villagers waved as I rode out of the enclosure. It’s just over a kilometre to get back to the main road on a mix of soft sand, I’m ready to hit the road and quickly get up to speed heading for the next town where I turn south for The Gambia border post.
Arriving at borders in Africa can be a mixed affair, I always find it a bit difficult to define where exactly to go but usually you will see a ‘Halte’ sign in the road first. I pass this by and try and find somewhere to park the bike, it’s pretty normal to be asked to move the bike several times until everyone is happy. Then you look for the official buildings, this could be a shack, a small office or an umbrella with a desk and chair, most are very grimy and invariably it’s very hot inside. Today’s offerings are no different and I pass through various checks to exit The Gambia and enter Senegal for the second time. It’s only about 100km to the next border and I’m thankful that my documents are in order and of course that I don’t have to pay anything either.
Senegal, South of The Gambia is a little different, it’s much greener and the jungle is starting to take hold. I pass through many villages which all appear to follow the same design. Most are centred on the road for easy access which brings its own dangers. Children, farm animals and dogs frequent the roads so you have to slow down and be very aware.
The border out of Senegal and into Guinea Bissau was also a pretty relaxed affair but spread over a few kilometres, the last post being the ‘Passevent ‘ office. I didn’t know at the time but it’s satur and that doubles the price of the vehicle temporary import permit. I check my notes and insist on the weekday price, the officer says it’s not possible but I only give him enough for my price, he accepts this and give me the passevent anyway!!
Guinea Bissau changes rapidly after the border, this is very much jungle country and the vegetation creeps in on the roadside. The conditions on the roads get much worse too, it started with potholes scattered randomly across the road and you have to be on high alert to see when they are coming up, there is a hint as you can see the red sand dusted around the damaged surface, this often means you will be riding anywhere on the available road to avoid them, it doesn’t always work!
There were kind sections where it was just not safe to ride on the road and you move off road to tracks that run alongside.
At the last checkpoint there was a local chap in a black V8 Lexus SUV, he was obviously being extorted as he was not a happy fella. His car had a super load exhaust and he was ‘giving it the beans’ through the villages attracting lots of attention where most people have an Ox and cart at best.
I ended up following him for while, he had blasted past but I caught him up on an off road section, he didn’t like that and went for it showering me with red dust. He was travelling slower on these sections so I chose my moment and shot past him, again he was not happy and he accelerated yet again but this time I was on the dirt and enjoying myself, I left him in the dust. At the next village he overtook me again in a blast that would have woke the dead. A chap at the side of the road looked at me and rolled is eyes, I shrugged my shoulders and he laughed, there was a great sense of silent communication , I pulled over and let him go, I don’t need that.
I didn’t really know where I was going to end up today but on the road I decided to head for Bissau City, there is a place there called Gorilla Bar which is an up and coming new place that welcomes Overlanders. The ride there is fantastic, more jungle, more potholes and dirt roads and then eventually I end up in the Bissau City.
Gorilla Bar is definitely under construction but the owner is young, with a wife and kids and is very welcoming. I opt to camp on a covered terrace which smells of cats and apparently is plagued by mosquitoes, seems like they are following me around!
Gorilla Bar is also the meeting place for a local motorcycle club, I don’t think most of it’s members have a bike but they are welcoming and kind people so they will eventually make good bikers!
I eat out at a local bar, communication is difficult but I eventually get what I want, with an ice cold beer, or two and I’m set for the evening. Staying up late isn’t on the cards for me so I have a shower and make sure the missive nets are closed properly.
Despite the night being very hot and humid I have a good sleep and wake early, the owner is still asleep and stays that way until around 9.00am some three hours later, I’ve been told there are iguanas in the overgrown garden and I think I observed one searching through the undergrowth for breakfast.
My mission in Bissau was to secure my Cote de Ivoir visa and I make my way across town to find the consular office, I’m successful in finding it but then realise that it’s Sunday and of course the place is closed, it’s funny because I’m never sure exactly what day it is, it doesn’t usually matter, in fact it didn’t matter here either it just means I will be in the city for at least another day.
I’m not a great fan of cities but needs must..
Sometimes it’s easier off the road
The route actually took around six hours and I was heading South.
Sneaky selfie at the border!
The potholes can be a little overwhelming!
You cannot miss them all!
It’s a jungle out there..
It would be much easier without the tarmac.
Yes, this is one intersection in Bissau City, hot that even at slow speed and you are off…
The condition of some of the lorries leaves a lot to be desired.
The linear villages on the road to Bissau are centres for surrounding communities and important trading posts for whatever grows locally.